Zuhair Murad RTW Spring 2023 – WWD
Zuhair Murad longs to escape. The Lebanese designer has long looked to people or architecture to anchor his collections, but this season he turned to nature – and man’s impact on it – for inspiration.
He traveled to the Vinicunca region of Peru and was inspired by the colors of its rainbow-colored mountains, as well as aerial shots by German photographer Tom Hegen, who puts the emphasis on the impact of human transformation on landscapes. There is beauty in destruction in many of Hegen’s works, which Murad has translated here into soft blues and dusty pinks, and unexpected tones of sand and ocher on pleated organza dresses. These colors were dreamy on the prints, but the black lace panels and added embellishments disturbed the serenity.
Murad does bridal best — witnessing her coup dressing Jennifer Lopez for her first wedding to Ben Affleck, as well as her movie “Marry Me” — and her construction on prom dresses remains unparalleled. It didn’t disappoint with structured asymmetrical dresses, as well as more form-fitting sequined party dresses. Ornate floral appliques adorned flared skirts, paired with cropped tops in line with this season’s trend of baring the midriff.
Murad knows his client loves a steering wheel and steering wheel, and here he’s provided them in spades, even though they’ve mastered his craft at times.