New to photography? Here’s some essential photography terminology

There is a lot to know when it comes to photography terminology. And there’s also a difference between knowing what things mean and being able to apply them. We will talk a little about it in this article. When I started this site, I wrote about photography terminology. And today, I am rearranging this room a bit.

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You get this effect with a slower shutter speed. This was done at 15 seconds.

Shutter speed – This is the length of time your camera shutter stays open and this can be read on the back of your screen or in the viewfinder. It is usually a fraction or a whole number.

For example:

1/15 = one fifteenth of a second

1/1000 = one thousandth of a second

1”= 1 second

15″ = fifteen seconds

Here are the basic rules to follow:

Fast motion is stopped with faster shutter speed. It’s at 1/8000th. The smaller the fraction, the faster the shutter speed.

The longer the shutter speed, the more motion will be captured and the longer you will have to stay still. This is ideal for capturing night scenes.

The faster the shutter speed, the less motion will be captured. This is great for capturing fast moving objects like sports action.

The longer the shutter speed, the more the camera will pick up your shaky hands. So you will get the camera shake effects. Image stabilization can help with this, but the best thing to do is to use a tripod or hold the camera effectively.

On your camera, this can be seen with S mode.

Opening – This is also known as F-stop. It controls how much of your image is in focus or out of focus (what is clear and what is blurry). It also controls the amount of light that enters your camera lens and hits the sensor (the film equivalent).

In fgeneral:

f1.4 = Allows high shutter speeds – not much is in focus

f2.8 = Allows shutter speeds almost as high – more focus (ideal for portraits)

f11 = Requires slower shutter speeds – much more is in focus

f22 = Requires slowest shutter speed – whatever you point your lens at should be in focus (best used with a flash unless there’s tons of bright light available)

If you have a smartphone or a drone, it probably won’t have a variable aperture; it will be locked to one setting because the sensor is so small. It’s kind of pointless to have a working aperture. Thus, the blur is created using software.

On your camera, this is also called AV mode.

Pro tip: While you can get really nice bokeh at f1.4, it can be difficult to focus on your subject. Try to achieve a balance between bokeh and sharpness by stopping a bit.

Bokeh– Bokeh can mean several things. Colloquially, it will refer to the quality of the blurred area of ​​a photo. But it has been adapted into the vernacular to simply mean the gray area. Various things affect bokeh. Coatings on lenses can add more or less contrast. More contrast can sometimes mean your subject stands out from the background. We’ve generally seen the Leica Apochromatic lenses give some of that special “pop”. And the number of aperture blades also affects the bokeh. The fewer the aperture blades, the less pleasing the bokeh balls in the background can be, but this also depends on the focal length.

Depth of field – This is the distance range within the subject over which focus is acceptable. It can be controlled using the aperture.

ISO – Sensitivity to light of your camera sensor. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive your camera will be to light and the grainier your images will look. The lower the ISO, the less sensitive the camera will be to light and the less grain your images will have. Higher ISOs allow faster shutter speeds.

ISO 100 = ideal for daylight use, no image grain

ISO 400 = ideal for twilight use, a little more grain

ISO 1600 = much more suitable for low light or high action where you need to stop fast movement

ISO 6400 = still better suited to low light and fast action, but provides grainy images

In recent years, cameras have become so capable that ISO 6400 can print images at 17×22 inches with little or no grain. ISO is something more flexible with digital cameras than with film. With film emulsions you should generally take the same ISO for the whole roll.

Manual – A shooting mode on your camera that allows you to control all aspects of shooting. You can manipulate shutter speed, ISO, aperture and more. On your camera, this is “M” mode.

Exposure – This term is used very interchangeably in the photographic community. This can mean your shutter speed, single shot, and other things. Your camera has something called “Exposure Compensation” which depending on the meter will make your image brighter or darker.

The way this can usually work on your camera is to set the shutter speed, ISO or aperture depending on the shooting mode (manual, aperture, shutter priority or program) in which You are.

Generally, it is enough to judge from the context.

Lens – The piece of glass attached to your camera. There are different types of lenses.

Prime: A fixed focal length without zoom. They can be 50mm, 28mm 85mm, etc. They tend to perform better depending on the manufacturer and also have a fixed aperture.

Zoom: A lens that zooms in and out. Lesser quality zooms generally change aperture when zooming in and out depending on the range. Higher quality ones maintain the same aperture at all zoom ranges. Again, this depends on different factors such as the zoom range.

Lenses with a larger aperture (f1.4) are called fast lenses. Lenses with a smaller aperture (greater than f4) are called slow lenses.

Focus – This is what the camera mainly tries to capture. During a point and shoot, this is what appears in the green boxes on your camera’s LCD screen. For a DSLR, this is what is clearly seen in the depth of field. The larger your F stop (f1.8), the less focus will be.

The out-of-focus area is affectionately known as “bokeh” and can produce beautiful results.

There are also different types of focus modes:

Macro – anything really close (seen as a flower symbol)

Infinity – for very, very distant objects (seen as a mountain symbol)

Normal – usually anything between Macro and Infinity

Beyond that there are:

Autofocus – lets the camera focus for you

Manual focus – you do all the focusing

Single focus – autofocus on a stationary subject.

Simple/Manual – as above but allows manual edits

Tracking Focus – keeps focusing on a point or subject as you move

Continuous/Manual – as above but allows manual touch-ups

Tracking focus – continues to focus on a subject as it moves

shine – The burst of light that comes from the camera when a picture is taken. There are different types of flash. Here are just two examples.

Fill Flash – light that will simply fill in dark spots

Red-eye – flash that will prevent red-eye from appearing

On your camera, this is usually characterized by the lightning symbol.

Shooting mode/speed – This determines the number of shots (or exposures) your camera will take when you press the shutter.

Single – When the shutter is pressed, it will take a photo. To take another photo, you must press the shutter button again.

Continuous – When the shutter is pressed and held down, it continues to take photos until the card fills up or the processor cannot write any more photos to the card.

On your camera, this is usually characterized by the three rectangles stacked on top of each other.

BELIEVED – There are many types of image files. The most common are JPEG files, which most cameras take and which you still see online. RAW is a much larger file that contains a lot of information and allows for more flexible editing. Different camera companies create different RAW files. For example Canon is CR3, Olympus ORF, Adobe is DNG.

Think of it this way:

Film: Negative -> Print

Digital: RAW -> JPEG

Not all cameras have RAW shooting mode. All DSLRs do.



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